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Day 12, Pouilly en Auxois to Dijon - 62 kilometers

Route conditions: Easy and fast riding, no traffic and somewhat downhill on unpaved and then paved canal tow path. Directions: Enter canal tow path at Pouilly en Auxois and ride it all the way to Dijon. The last 20K are paved and in excellent condition.

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   I awoke early and snuck out to the patisserie to buy the morning's breakfast. The two attractive young girls behind the counter had a room full of people buying their products and it took a few minutes to be served. I didn't mind, the two girls and all the pastries were excellent eye candy! It rained during the night and was still sprinkling when I walked back to the hotel. 

    The two sleepyheads woke up after my making some noise and we ate breakfast and got ready for the day. We had made contact with a couple in Dijon through the Warm Showers List and were going to stay at their house for the next two days. We were looking forward to it.

    Jeanette and I got out the maps and looked at the day's ride. Following the canal would cause us to travel in a V and be a longer ride than just following the roads straight to Dijon. We debated which way to go and decided that we should stop in the tourist office and find out more information. We loaded up the bikes and rode across the square to the TI where the two young ladies told us that the canal was by far the best route since the roads had some hills and could have heavy traffic at times.

    The path was in better shape than the previous sections and the wind had come around and was at our backs as we started the ride. Our pace picked up to over 20K an hour but we still had to stop for frequent rear breaks because of the occasional bumps. Within a half hour the sun started to break through the clouds. It was turning into a nice day.

    Our quick pace soon brought us to the abbey at La Bussiere Sur Ouche. We parked the bikes and walked through the grounds and the buildings. We had hoped to have lunch in the restaurant but were about a half hour late for the single sitting that the abbey provided. Instead, we walked through the open areas of the main building, looking at the restored interior and the furniture and tapestries. 

    After our tour we returned to the path and continued on our journey. When we were about 20k from Dijon the path became paved and our pace really picked up. We were cruising at 25k, the wind was at our backs, the sun was out, we were feeling great. We saw a tent alongside the canal at an ecluse with signs advertising lunches so we stopped and ordered from the menu, not knowing for sure what we would be served. It turned out that we had ordered fried chicken gizzards and pasta. While surprised, we found that the meal was really tasty and we ate with gusto.

    The canal path took us right into downtown Dijon along a series of parks and a lake. We decided to buy a map, spread it out on a picnic table and found that we had somehow taken a wrong turn and had left the tow path and were on city bike paths. We backtracked to where we should exit from the path and were just turning onto city streets when a couple on bikes, towing a trailer approached. The man looked us over seeing the tandem and half bike and said, "I think you're looking for us."

    I asked, "Are you Andre?" He nodded. He and his mate, Brigitte, had been going to pick up their young daughter, Clementine. Instead they led us back to their apartment and helped us lock up the bikes in their garage. We walked upstairs to their apartment and Brigitte took the car to pick up their daughter. 

    Andre informed us that another couple, two cyclists from Scotland, were due to arrive as well. I needed to go to the store and Andre was going to show me the way. We walked down to the front door of the building and when we opened it, we found the two cyclists standing outside!

    Everyone settled in, unpacking, washing, etc, and Brigitte returned with Clementine, a cute little two year old, introduced her to her house full of guests and then busied herself in the kitchen. Andre and Brigitte had invited us to dinner and I had bought several bottles of wine to share at the meal.

    Brigitte made a huge pot of pasta with salmon and we all dug in, there was plenty of food for all of us. We talked of touring. Andre maintained a French list similar to the Warm Showers List. He and Brigitte had toured extensively riding from France to Capetown, South Africa. Andre  had ridden from Alaska to South America and Brigitte had toured on a triple with two other girls through Mongolia. Our adventures seemed tame compared to theirs. The Scottish couple was in route to a vacation home within riding distance and planned to stay there for a few weeks, exploring the area on their bikes. They too were veteran cyclists. We were in excellent company and by far the most inexperienced of any at the table.

    The conversation continued after dinner. Andre showed us a guest book that he and Brigitte maintained and we and the Scots couple thumbed through the pages, reading the posts of some of the guests that had visited. I would have to think about what I wanted to write before taking pen to paper and set the book aside to be filled in the next day.

    We talked until about 11:00 and then everyone retired to the accommodations that Andre and Brigitte provided. It had been a long day for us cyclists and the Scots couple hoped to make an early start in the morning. 

Recommendations and accommodations:

Andre and Brigitte may  be found on the Warm Showers List
(We are also members)

Days 13 and 14, Around Dijon and from Dijon to Dole - 58 kilometers

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